Top 10 Framing Tips
1. Consider the picture.
The first thing to remember in choosing a frame is that the
frame is simply there to present your picture. You don't want to
choose a frame that will take attention away from your picture. The
frame is there to enhance the picture, not the reverse. You can
really improve the appearance of a picture by choosing the right
frame for it. You can get advice from a professional, but in the
end you don't have to take that advice, the right frame for the
picture is the one that you will enjoy most with your picture.
2. Consider the surroundings.
Although this should not over ride our first consideration it is
often useful to try to picture the surroundings the picture is
likely to hang in. If there is a lot of chrome in the room you may
not want a gold frame, likewise if there is a lot of light wood in
the room, you may prefer a frame of that colour to a darker
wood. This consideration is perhaps of most importance where
the picture will be hanging in themed surroundings.
3. D.I.Y. or Bespoke?
Should you pick up a d.i.y. frame from a shop and frame it
yourself, or should you go to a gallery for a specially made and
considered frame. Well in most cases I would advise the latter,
there is certainly a case for self fit frames where the cheaper
open edition prints are concerned. These are usually printed to
standard sizes so you can often find a frame off the shelf that
will fit. If you are buying a more collectable piece of artwork, I
would suggest you get help and advice on what might be the best
frame for your picture, in the end as I have said, you don't have
to take that advice, but a framer might be able to ensure the frame
is strong enough to support your picture, or might throw forward
some suggestions you had not considered. Collectable artwork is
rarely printed to standard sizes so finding a ready made frame to
fit can often be difficult.
4. Glass.
There are many types of glass on the market now; I will try
to categorise them simply:
Clear glass
All glass is usually about 2mm in width, fairly lightweight and
ideal for picture framing. This is the most common choice. It is
simply clear glass.
Non reflective glass
This type of glass, while having the advantage of reducing
reflection can also reduce colour intensity and detail. If you are
unsure how it will look on your picture, ask the framer if they
have a sample you can sit on your picture. If the glass is one or
two mounts depth away from the picture, the fogging effect can be
quite noticeable.
Conservation glass
This is basically clear glass in appearance, (though sometimes
with an ever so slight colour hue, there are different makes
available) but it has conservation qualities. This glass will
prevent most harmful light rays (usually about 96-98%) from
damaging your artwork; it acts like a sunscreen for your picture.
It can be the glass of choice for collectable artwork.
Conservation glass with anti
reflection
This is glass with qualities of the above glass but with a non
reflective finish.
Often the choice of glass will, in part, be determined by where
your picture will hang, i.e. will it face a lot of light or the
value of your artwork and how much you are prepared to pay on the
project.
5. Mounts.
If your picture is a print on canvas board, or an original oil
painting or acrylic on canvas or board, then it will not need glass
or a paper mount. It might suit a slip, or an inner frame, this
would act as a mount if you like. Paper prints, embroideries
and water colours for example might benefit from a mount. A
mount is a cardboard surround cut to sit between the picture and
the frame, with a 45 degree bevel around the aperture. They can
come in various colours, sizes and types. Again I would suggest you
seek advice on the best colour, width and type of mount card from a
professional framer. You can use a mount to pick out a certain
colour that you want to project; sometimes a double mount is nice,
where you show about 1/4" of a strong colour inside a wider softer
colour. You can also choose conservation mount board for more
collectable artwork and nice deep bevel mounts.
6. Hanging.
You might want to think about where the picture is likely to
hang. Would it be better hanging from a picture rail? In public
places, often more secure mirror plates are suitable. If your work
is going in an exhibition, often there is a certain type of hanger
required. You may simply want hangers and cord on the back of the
frame which can be hung with a picture hook in the wall. There are
many types of hanging system available, ask at your framers if you
are unsure. On smaller pictures you may want the option to hang up
or stand up.
7. Frame width.
Clearly you will need to opt for a frame that is strong enough
to support the weight of your picture, possibly with glass and back
as well. If you want a very narrow frame on a big picture, consider
a metal frame, these can be more expensive than the equivalent
width in wood, but they are a lot stronger.
8. Conservation Quality.
If your picture is of value, sentimental or monetary, it might
be worth asking about conservation framing. We have touched on this
above in glass and mounts. When an item is conservation framed it
basically means that all the material in contact with your picture
will be of conservation quality, i.e. not containing acidity or
other pollutants that may damage your artwork over time.
9. Dry Mounting.
Dry Mounting is a process that bonds your artwork to a piece of
board. It is invaluable where the artwork is of no real value, such
as open edition prints, especially on larger sizes that might
otherwise appear wavy under the glass. It is not recommended though
on any collectable or valuable artwork, such pieces of art can
loose value if glued down.
10. Be Adventurous.
Don't be afraid of trying something different, something you had
not previously thought of, you might be surprised!
'top ten' image by Sam Churchill ,
thanks Sam
posted 06/11
